7. THEME LOOK AND STYLE

The most widely used element in bandhani is a simple dot-bindi. Using this many elaborate motifs can be made. Knots are placed in clusters each with a different name such as 1 dot is ekadali and 3 dots is trikunti.1

Square rather than round motifs are also common and are called laddu or dabbi. They frequently have multi colored bands, often applied by block printing inside them.

The tear shaped motif called kodi (cowire shell) is usually formed by stitch resist and outline by running stitch and gathered b pulling the thread. The kodi is individually dipped in dye or dapped with color pad. A method called lipai is used at times.

Gharcholu

Gharcholu is divided into compartments by woven strips of gold brocade. The main designs are called bar bagh (12 sections) or bavan bagh (52 sections) depending upon number of motifs and squares. Border of zari chowk is used usually but to cut down the prices which rise because of zari, gold ribbon strips are used as replacement of zari. Motifs are usually a combination of geometric form, ladies dancing or playin instruments and animals like elephants and peacocks.

Khatri textiles

The tie dyed silk textiles worn by Khatri muslims are very distinctive. As the Islamic tradition forbids the representation of living creatures, their decoration is entirely geometric, with no embellishment of dancing ladies or even peacocks or elephants. Khatri odhanis all conform to a basic design of central medallion with 4 smaller ones around it, with a wider border often made up of several bands of decoration. Narrow color scheme of black and red is used. The central circular medallion gives it the name Chandarokhani.

Other motifs made using dots:

 

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